MY FAVOURITE ADVENTURE!

Capturing images of Andean pumas against the backdrop of the Patagonian snow has long been a dream of mine. A few years ago, I embarked on a quest to find an exceptional guide who could help make that dream a reality. Thanks to an excellent recommendation from a fellow female wildlife photographer, I was able to turn that vision into a plan!

Originally scheduled during the challenging COVID-19 years, I ended up postponing the safari to 2024—a decision I now look back on with gratitude, as the timing turned out to be perfect.

This particular safari didn’t attract many participants, perhaps due to the unpredictable nature of wildlife sightings, fluctuating weather conditions, costs, and the physically demanding task of tracking pumas in a rugged landscape. In the end, only one fellow adventurer joined me: Trina Donkin. Though she felt a bit apprehensive about what was to come, we were ultimately rewarded with an unforgettable adventure—one of my very best!

Our safari begins in the enchanting town of Punta Arenas, Chile—a picturesque setting that serves as the perfect launchpad for our adventure. Trina and I dedicated an entire day to exploring its charming streets on foot, immersing ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere filled with delightful restaurants, unique shops, and welcoming locals. We felt an overwhelming sense of safety that enriched our experience. I wholeheartedly recommend spending some time in Punta Arenas before or after your safari.

After soaking in the beauty of Punta Arenas, we embarked on a five-hour drive to Torres del Paine. Our home for the next six nights was a private estancia, where we set out to search for wild pumas and a variety of wildlife. Nestled right next to the National Park, our estancia offered breathtaking views of the iconic towers, making it an unparalleled location for our adventure.

We eagerly anticipated encountering snow during our safari, as capturing images of pumas in a thick blanket of snow is a rare and coveted opportunity in the realm of wildlife photography. To our delight, we awoke on our first morning to find the landscape transformed by several inches of freshly fallen snow; it had been snowing throughout the night. Remarkably, the snow persisted for the entirety of our safari, making us feel incredibly fortunate!

One of the initial species we encounter is the guanaco, a primary food source for the puma. This wild camelid is closely related to the llama.

I’ll never forget our first encounter with a puma. It was mid-morning on our first day when we rounded a corner and spotted an adult female and her cub perched on the rocks. The female, known as Renegada, was a somewhat shy puma who maintained a respectful distance from us. I was thrilled with this sighting, but little did I know that the experience was about to become even more extraordinary!

Our daily lunches in the field were a highlight of our trip, offering breathtaking views that made every meal enjoyable. On our first day, we were treated to a stunning vista of a frozen lake, its serene beauty perfectly complemented by the majestic Torres towering in the background. The combination of the crisp mountain air, the tranquility of the lake, and the grandeur of the Torres created an unforgettable atmosphere that made our lunchtime experience truly unforgettable.

As the sun began to set on our first day in Puma Land, we received word that a mating pair of pumas was in the vicinity. We approached, enchanted by their haunting calls echoing through the mist. Although we had just missed witnessing their courtship, fortune smiled upon us as the couple moved away from the rocks. For the next thirty minutes, we tracked them on foot, captivated by their grace and presence.

The guides informed us that Brisa is an inexperienced male when it comes to mating, which became evident during our observations. The female appeared to express her frustration at times, vocalising loudly in response.

Most mornings, the sun would rise at 10 a.m, casting breathtaking colours across the snow-capped landscape that left us in awe.

As Dania’s agitation with Brisa grew more pronounced, we were able to capture the moment just after mating was finished.

We were incredibly starstruck to be out in the field alongside the talented Frans Lanting. It was a genuine pleasure to connect with someone who inspires us and to discover firsthand that they are not only remarkably gifted but also kind, humble, and generous with their time.

Day three of the safari was truly a profound experience. We spent the morning photographing a female puma affectionately nicknamed “Frost.” She is the daughter of the renowned Petaca and the sister of Brisa, though her given name is Escarcha-Amarga.

Just a few months ago, I watched her in a documentary as a tiny cub. Today, she emerged gracefully from a snow-covered black bush, perfectly framed by frost. It was an utterly breathtaking sight.

On day four, we tracked Rupestre on foot, which turned out to be our most challenging hike in pursuit of puma sightings. For several hours, we navigated through deep snow, pushing our limits as my heart raced with excitement. Thankfully, Rupestre paused frequently, allowing us moments to catch our breath. Following pumas demands a moderate level of fitness, but I believe most of the honey badgers in our community would handle it just fine.

Rupestre, a confident and fearless feline, will often stroll right up to you, seemingly oblivious to your presence. The thrill of being just a few feet away from this majestic creature is an exhilarating experience that will leave you in awe.

A remarkable sighting! Rupestre has made an appearance at the famed “Puma Hotel,” a rocky enclave frequently visited by these magnificent cats. Present at the scene are Sol and Dania, we were thrilled to witness three adult female pumas gathering peacefully in one spot, without any signs of conflict. The strong family bond among them likely contributed to this extraordinary display of harmony.

One of the most enchanting afternoons in Patagonia unfolded as we embarked on our quest for the elusive Petaka and her cubs. After days of searching, we finally spotted her one late afternoon, and it was truly a highlight of our journey.

We all marvelled at how remarkable it is for such a well-known cat to elude detection for so many days. There’s something undeniably beautiful about her ability to remain hidden, and it fills me with admiration.

Our last day in the realm of the pumas was marked by a complete whiteout. The weather brought a mix of rain and snow, and the chill in the air was biting. With no sign of any pumas, we contemplated returning to the ranch. Just as we were about to lose hope, we were thrilled to spot two pumas by the roadside. To our delight, it was Petaka playfully chasing her older daughter, whom we affectionately call Escharcha, or “Frost.”

As we stepped out of our car, we were greeted by breathtaking compositions of Petaka and Frost. The blanket of snow helped create this magical capture.

Petaka then sprang into action, chasing after a guanaco! She quickly vanished over the hill, out of sight. Just a few minutes later, our guide Jorge called to share the exciting news: she had successfully caught a juvenile guanaco!

Watching this female drag prey larger than herself through the snow, right past us, is an unforgettable experience!

Our final afternoon on the safari was enchanting as we visited a condor roost. We ascended to the summit of a breathtaking mountain, capturing stunning photographs of one of the world’s largest flying birds as they gracefully settled in for the night.