THE PANTANAL

In June 2024, Bobby-Jo Safaris set off on an unforgettable adventure with eight Honey Badgers to the enchanting state of Mato Grosso in Brazil. Our journey began with a landing in the vibrant town of Cuiabá, where we soaked up the local atmosphere and spent a night brimming with anticipation. The next morning, we were joined by our incredible Brazilian guide, Tito, a true Pantanal aficionado who has been navigating this wild paradise for nearly two decades.

Our adventure kicked off with a scenic three-hour drive northward to the breathtaking Pantanal region along the iconic Transpantaneira Highway. We were treated to an astonishing amount of bird species that looked like they’d flown straight out of the movie “Rio”.

Arriving at Pousada Piuval, our cozy home for the next three nights, we were ready to dive into safari mode. With our sights set on spotting the elusive giant anteater, the dazzling hyacinth macaw, and the adorable capybara. We were greeted by capybara right at our doorsteps!

At Pousada Piuval, our primary goal was to find the giant anteater. Following Tito’s expert guidance, we explored termite mound areas where these shy animals frequented. Setting out before dawn, fuelled by excitement, we embraced the early start in our quest. With each step, we felt the thrill of potential discovery, eager to spot this remarkable creature.

We were the first group to spot the giant anteater, and witnessing this truly extraordinary creature walking through the grass was an incredible experience. Although it was challenging to photograph, the Honey Badgers and I managed to capture a few images. We dedicated the next two mornings to photographing the giant anteater.

The giant anteater (Myrmecophaga tridactyla) is a unique animal found in Brazil’s grasslands and forests, known for its long snout and tongue, which can reach 16 inches. This adaptation enables it to consume large quantities of ants and termites daily.

One species that all the Honey Badgers eagerly anticipated was the stunning hyacinth macaw. Pousada Piuval proved to be an outstanding location for observing and photographing these magnificent birds. We had numerous encounters, with some occurring right outside our accommodation.

Another highlight of Pousada Piuval is the hundreds of capybaras that surround the lodge. These charming and playful creatures delighted all the Honey Badgers, who enjoy watching their antics and social dynamics. Interestingly, it turns out that the capybaras stay close to the lodge at night to avoid jaguars.

We spent our afternoons and evenings on game drives around the private estancia. Tito, an exceptional spotter with the flashlight, guided us through the wilderness. During one of our night safaris we were fortunate enough to glimpse a Brazilian tapir. This remarkable creature, however, was incredibly shy and quickly vanished from sight after just a few seconds.

The birdlife at the Pousada is truly breathtaking. With over 463 species inhabiting the Northern Pantanal, we were fortunate to observe a significant number during our first three days. On our final morning in Piuval, a pair of stunning blue-and-yellow macaws graced the trees right in front of the restaurant.

We thoroughly enjoyed our time at Pousada Piuval, but we were eager to head to Porto Joffre to explore the river and search for its renowned residents: the majestic jaguars.

We drove back down the Transpantaneira highway and made a quick stop at a small lodge for a break. While enjoying ice cream by the riverbank, we spotted our first giant river otters, which was incredibly exciting and filled us with anticipation for the wildlife sightings to come! Our destination was Porto Jofre, where we would base ourselves for six nights. This area is renowned for its jaguars, and each day we would venture out on boats to explore the Porto Jofre River and the surrounding tributaries and canals. There is a wealth of incredible wildlife waiting to be discovered!

The atmosphere was electric as we boarded the boat for our river safari. We all took in the breathtaking beauty of the Pantanal when, just a few minutes later, Tito suddenly hit the throttle! He discreetly tapped me on the shoulder, and when I turned around, he signalled with his hand to confirm a jaguar sighting. I felt a surge of adrenaline and wanted to scream with excitement, but I held back, wanting to keep the surprise for the group. I didn’t want to raise everyone’s hopes in case the jaguar vanished before we arrived. As we sped toward the sighting, a wave of pure joy washed over me at the thought of finally capturing my last Panthera species. Life is wonderful, and I feel incredibly fortunate to be experiencing these adventures alongside such fantastic travel companions.

Marcela was our first wild jaguar, and she was absolutely stunning! As we slowly positioned our boat along the riverbank, we caught a glimpse of her iconic, blocky rosettes. Then, with grace and poise, she emerged from the tall grass, leaving us in awe!

We spent the afternoon with Marcela as she skilfully stalked caimans along the riverbank. It was inspiring to watch her glide into the water and move through the reeds. Finally, she caught a caiman and dragged it up the bank, the experience was truly unforgettable.

Marcela was first observed on the river in 2021 and she is easily identified by her amber eyes and is missing a piece of her right ear.

Our second day was all about the majestic giant river otters. We enjoyed an exceptional sighting of a small family and followed them as they fished. In the afternoon, we observed them engaging in a fascinating behaviour known as sprainting, where they mark their territory by depositing their faeces and scent along the riverbank. It was quite a spectacle; they are both loud and pungent in their marking!

Giant Otters can be individually identified by their unique markings and patterns on their throat and neck. We were fortunate to meet with The Giant Otter Project and learn all about the plight of this species. You can find out more information here: https://giantotterproject.org/the-giant-otter/

During the next five days, we experienced an abundance of remarkable jaguar sightings, managing to spot them on four out of five days—an unbelievable achievement! We were fortunate enough to spend time with the Jaguar Identification Project, where they delivered an insightful presentation about the project and the various threats faced by jaguars in the Pantanal. This experience was truly inspiring, and the identification book they provided greatly enriched our adventure. The best way to identify a jaguar is by studying the unique marking on their forehead. P

The Honey Badgers engaged in a friendly challenge to see who could identify the jaguars first, making the safari even more exciting! You can learn more about the inspiring work of Jaguar Identification Project here: https://www.jaguaridproject.com/

All Honey Badgers receive a digital copy of this wonderful guide when travelling on the Pantanal Safari.

The diversity of birdlife was astonishing, and observing them from the boat greatly enhanced the photography experience for all the Honey Badgers.

We were fortunate to witness a courting couple, Oxum and Tusk. This delightful sighting was ours alone during the early morning on the river.

We observed Ousado, a remarkable male jaguar who was rescued from a devastating fire in September 2020. Although his paws were severely burned, he received comprehensive veterinary treatment and successfully made a return to the wild.

The Honey Badgers spent countless hours on our boat in close quarters, yet the strong sense of camaraderie resulted in delightful moments filled with laughter.

We were incredibly fortunate to spot Marcela again, and this time she was elegantly perched on a dead tree by the river. Truly, she embodies the spirit of a Pantanal supermodel!

My all-time favourite jaguar from the safari is a formidable older female known as Overa. Many years ago, she sustained a mysterious injury to her mouth, likely the result of a bite from a large caiman or possibly a confrontation with another jaguar. I’ve heard that some photographers have been hesitant to capture her image, believing her facial scars detract from her beauty. However, my group and I see her as magnificent. We had learned about Overa through our Jaguar ID book, and we were thrilled to finally catch a glimpse of her in the quiet oxbow lake.

Every day, we travelled home along the river to our lodge, captivated by the breathtaking sunsets and the sight of hundreds of snail kites soaring overhead. The atmosphere on the boat was always vibrant, filled with smiles and laughter. The energy was pure joy, and I often found myself sitting at the back, reflecting on how fortunate I was to be immersed in such a stunning environment, surrounded by remarkable wildlife and wonderful company.

Our last destination on the Pantanal safari was a two-night stay at the Rio Claro lodge. During this time, we concentrated on enhancing our bird photography skills and seeking out the diverse smaller wildlife of the Pantanal.

We were thrilled to be rewarded within just a few hours of arriving in Rio Claro when we spotted a Tamandua on the hotel grounds. It was an incredible opportunity to spend time photographing this elusive smaller anteater. This beautiful little creature displayed a surprising willingness to approach our guests.

One of the highlights of our safari was the exhilarating moment we spotted a nocturnal ocelot. During our night safari, our talented guide, Tito, once again showcased his keen eye as he detected the glimmer of eyes and the subtle movement of a small mammal in the shadows. To our delight, this inquisitive cat approached our vehicle, granting us a rare opportunity to capture it on camera. Observing a truly wild ocelot in its natural habitat is a rare and unforgettable experience.

Each morning, we spent our time on the river near the lodge, photographing a stunning variety of birds and mammals. The Honey Badgers practiced our bird-tracking skills, using fast shutter speeds to capture images of kingfishers, herons, and eagles as they fished in the water. It was a delightful way to conclude our safari.